(CHECK UPDATE) When we picked up this unit (New to us) I noticed a slight “chirping” when the engine was idling.
I figured the belt has never been replaced, so its probably in need for a new belt.
The idler and tensioner bearings also start making noises, so while I had everything apart, may as well replace the idlers bearings.
Getting to the idlers, belt, or anything else on the front of the engine is a real bear. However, we had both front tires off doing brakes, so this made the job a lot easier.
The pull tab on the tensioner is best accessed from the bottom. It has a 3/8 ratchet drive hole in it. I tried a breaker bar, but there was just to much other stuff in the way and I couldn’t swing it. I used a ratchet drive with a 2 ft piece of pipe and was able to pull the tensioner back (down) and pop the belt off the crank pulley or a helper can pop it off the alternator pulley from the top
Study the diagram carefully, pay particular attention on how the belt gets to the A/C compressor (9). Its routed between the tensioner and idler pulley from the top. Look at the routing from under the truck and the passenger side wheel well. Its not complicated, but you’ll scratch your head if you don’t have th4e diagram and have see how its routed.
REPLACING TENSIONER AND IDLER PULLEYS
Getting to the 3 bolts that hold the tensioner (1) and one bolt for the small idler pulley (2) is easy from the passenger side wheel well if the tire is removed and truck supported on stands. 5 minute job
The larger pulley (5) is a little more difficult but can be removed from the drivers side wheel well. 3 minute job
I elected to replace the bearings in the tensioner pulley and the two idler pulleys. They all take the same bearing, it can be pressed out and the new ones pressed in
The pulleys cost $35 – $50 each, the bearing costs $6. If you have a press or sometimes the shop where you purchased the bearings can press them in.