TOAD – Saturn Vue

I was reading through other posts and someone had the exact same symptoms I have:

This person had swapped an engine tranny from auto to manual. After installing the new engine, the car would start, idle great for about three seconds, then all the sudden start running rough for about three seconds, then abruptly quit. (I’ll post a video and link as soon as this forum allows me to)

In reading the post, the person mentioned the electrical plug for the Throttle body and the Fuel injection rail are identical, and can easily be plugged into the wrong place.

One of the problems with inheriting a five your old project, I have no idea what the previous owner has done, or screwed up. A couple weeks ago I had unplugged everything and was cleaning up wire runs, soldering connections, and tracing a couple data lines. At that time, I wasn’t aware of the connectors that could be plugged into the wrong places, or I would have checked for this. (URGH)

However, before I reconnected them last week, I did verify the correct plugs went to the correct places.

Now the bad news. My current symptoms are exactly the same as the previous poster, so I’m going to assume the plugs were connected to the wrong items and toasted the ECM and the MAP sensor.

I found an ECM out of a manual transmission (eBay) and also ordered a new MAP sensor from Rock Auto.

When this stuff comes in, hopefully this will cure this problem.

IDENTIFY THE CORRECT PLUG

Below are the three photos

1) Shows the correct plug that is plugged into the Throttle body, There are 8 wires in the connector, but notice you can easily see the four wires on one side of the connector thats facing you;

Pin A – GREEN
Pin B – BLACK/WHITE
Pin C – GRAY
Pin D – PURPLE

2) Shows the diagram of the Throttle Body plug

3) Shows the Fuel Injector plug

Both lines were similar in how they were constructed. The lines were steel but the last 12 inches was plastic with the connector installed on the plastic tube. On the Engine side of the main fuel line, a flexible hose was crimped onto the steel line.

I cut the plastic tubes off of the steel lines and I cut the flexible hose off on the mail fuel line.

MAIN FUEL LINE

I cut the flexible hose off the steel tube in the engine compartment, leaving a couple inches of the steel tube on the flexible hose. I then cleaned the small tube and used a flare to put a very small lip on the end of the steel tube to help capture the new hose.

The other end of the main line was a 12 inch long plastic with the connector on the end. I carefully cut the plastic tubing away from the connector and can now slide the connector over the new hose.

I bought 10 ft of fuel line hose (blue color), Use high quality “Fuel Injection” clamps to clamp the hose on both ends. I used two clamps on the engine side where the hose slid over the steel tub. One clamp on the back of the hose is OK as the connector has barbs on it.

VENT FUEL LINE

The vent fuel line is similar to the main line, but it had 12 inch plastic tube with plastic connectors on both ends. I carefully cut the tube off of the plastic connectors.

A visit to the auto parts store, They had the plastic tubing that fit over the connectors (10mm OD, 9mm ID). We installed one of the connectors and a crimp clamp on the tube while at the store. Although the connectors are barbed, I decided to put one of the crimp connector clamps on each end to help seal / hold the tubing connectors off of the tubes.

I’ll install the new fuel lines this weekend.